🔗 Share this article

New York fashion week is turning out to be a notably confusing time for design houses as they face a worldwide decline, causing some to wonder what high-end fashion even means today.

For some consumers, it is inevitably about a polished five-figure handbag. To another group, it is a exclusive collectible figurine. A particular set considers a simple cashmere jumper to be the height of high status, brand emblems endures for others. Retro buys is now used to denote quality but similarly buying nothing has become a strong signifier.

Creative Lead the Designer on Premium Design

Prior to the brand’s show, the style lead commented that the word luxury was “too common”. Originally from England, who has been at the American brand since 2013, clarified that he was no longer “drawn to extreme refinement or flawlessness that has long been linked to luxury”.

Rather, the fashion presentation aimed to embody what is seen as desirable in the eyes of Gen Z. This resulted in hip-hugging jeans so relaxed they could be heard dragging on the runway with edges dirty and scratched. Oversized sweaters appeared to be worn out. Some models wore utility-style boots with heavy bottoms and scratched leather.

Included were actual workwear pieces, including repurposed trousers with artistic marks still visible. Meanwhile, racer-inspired outerwear appeared worn-in because they were – created with repurposed leather, part of a wider sustainability initiative the brand started in 2023.

This is luxury 2.0. This is what gen Z wants to wear and is already wearing all over the city’s Lower East Side. The creative director loves to study fashion in real life and his time spent doing so is proving fruitful. In a world of distraction, Coach has managed to appeal to gen Z.

Business Performance and Stylistic Themes

On the most recent Lyst Index, a regular analysis that orders brands based on sales, the house now sits at number five, placed between Prada and The Row. In August, its corporate owner said Coach continued to drive growth at the group, increasing 14% to a significant figure since January.

The brand’s performance means its show has become one of the biggest on the schedule. This time it utilized a expansive event space overlooking the East River, filling it with attendees including actors and public personalities.

Earlier lineups drew from American iconography, including graphic tees, this time the thematic elements were much more understated. The designer said he had been thinking about grit: “By grit, I mean durability, and the charm of how the city comes back to life every morning.”

He credited “a distinct point of view and a differentiated aesthetic” as part of its appeal. “Our pieces have a certain approachable quality. There is a certain ease to them. I think that sits well with the times we are in.”

Value Approach and Legacy

Coach’s pricing strategy also works. Its popular handbag, seen worn with the arm of celebrities, hovers around an reasonable mark – something followers can afford to work towards rather than just add to a fantasy wishlist. Large clutches that riff on a classic design and sit closer to a higher price point have also had a boost in popularity thanks to appearances in popular media.

The label is also leaning into its long legacy. A-list celebrities have been pictured carrying vintage bags from earlier decades. Meanwhile, after noticing young shoppers were buying secondhand items featuring the iconic logo, the designer has put a new twist on the idea of logo dressing. This time around, it comes combined with plaid and check patterns on structured garments.

Ending Thoughts

Overall, the collection presented a vision of luxury that is raw, wearable, and deeply rooted in the real world. By celebrating imperfection, purpose, and eco-consciousness, the brand has successfully redefined what high-end fashion can look like in a modern context.