🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.